Mount Everest – North Ridge (8,848m)

The north side of Mount Everest is considerably more impressive than the south (Nepal) side. Rising in a sheer 10,000 ft / 3,000 m. from the Rongbuk Glacier, it towers above the Tibetan Plateau. It was to this side of the mountain that the British Expedition in the 1920’s and 30’s came, when Nepal was closed to foreigners.

Since its first ascent by the Chinese in 1960, the North Ridge has been climbed numerous times. In the last few years it has received the attention of several commercial expeditions, and with careful planning the same success rates as the south side are possible. Gaining 8000m is demanding but it is the last 848m that are the most difficult.

Himalaya Expeditions (HimEX) runs expeditions during both the pre & post monsoon periods. Late May offers the greatest chances of reaching the summit, after acclimatizing in April and the early part of May, a good rest at base camp the warm summer winds, as they have in the past, will often allow those on the summit to shoot photographs without wearing gloves. Only with good preparation and back-up is this possible.

Outline Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu. Meet & transfer to Hotel. O/N Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu for preparation. O/N Hotel.
Day 03: Free day in Kathmandu for preparation. O/N Hotel.
Day 04: Drive Kathmandu / Zhangmu. O/N Hotel.
Day 05: Drive to Nyalam. O/N Lodge.
Day 06: Rest day at Nyalam for acclimatization. O/N Lodge.
Day 07: Drive to Shegar. O/N Lodge.
Day 08: Rest day at Shegar for acclimatization. O/N Lodge.
Day 09: Drive to Everest Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 10: At Everest Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 11: At Everest Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 12: At Everest Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 13: Trek to Advanced Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 14: At Advance Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 15:  
To Climbing Period.
Day 53:  
Day 54: Return to Advance Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 55: Return to Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 56: Cleaning up Base Camp. O/N Camp.
Day 57: Drive back to Nyalam. O/N Lodge.
Day 58: Drive back to Kathmandu. O/N Hotel.
Day 59: Free day in Kathmandu for independent activities. O/N Hotel.
Day 60:

Transfer to airport for departure.

 Departure Dates  Availability
 03 Apr-04 Jun  Available
Day 01:

Arrive Kathmandu.1,300m. via respective airlines. O/N Hotel.

  On arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuwan International Airport you will be received by our staff and escort you to the Hotel, where one of our leader or a Sherpa guide will give you a brief orientation of the Hotel, Kathmandu, Trek/Camping, do's and don't and other related information that you might require while in Nepal / Tibet.
Day 02:

Free day in Kathmandu preparation for the expedition. O/N Hotel.

  After your first night in Kathmandu, you will be well informed on arrival about the time for your half day guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu at places of interest. (For interested people on request only.) Rest of the day is required in Kathmandu, checking on expedition's equipment and paper works. Sometime, depending upon your flight arrival if it's late in the night we will do this tour in the afternoon instead of morning to give you a nice sleep and rest before you venture out of the Hotel for our interesting tour.
Day 03:

At leisure in Kathmandu. O/N Hotel.

  This is our last chance to sort out equipment and forgotten items. We will spend part of the day packing loads for the journey to base camp and finalize all plans. This is your last day before the trip starts, enjoy it!
Day 04:

Kathmandu -Zhangmu (2,300 m)-123 Kms.

  Departure early morning from Kathmandu, drive towards Kodari (Tibet/Nepal border) through scenic countryside via Dhulikhel. After completion of immigration formalities at Kodari/ Zhangmu, we check in at hotel in Zhangmu. Overnight in hotel/guest house.
Day 05:

Zhangmu to Nylam 3,800m. 35 km. O/N Hotel / Guesthouse.

  Today's drive is shorter, drive leads up towards the long winding road passing through Zhangmu town, once off the town suburb the traffic gets better. The journey continues on the winding road with striking scenery of the surrounding landscapes and its verdant forest of pines, hemlock, oaks and rhododendrons trees the drive slowly enters the gorge with beautiful waterfalls looking down the Bhote Kosi river way down below once out of the tree line, the road leads up to Nylam town, a small town gradually growing every year. On arrival we will check in the best available Guest house or at Lodge in Nylam.
Day 06:

At Nylam for acclimatisation. O/N Lodge / Guest house.

  A necessary free day for acclimatisation, whole of Nylam elevation rises from 3,600m to 3,800m. For energetic people one can go for a good hike towards Shishapangma South trail for a few hours walk. The walk leads off the town just from the bridge or one can visit the holy meditation Cave of 11th, century Poet- Saint Guru Milerappa just few hours walk to and from the main Nylam town.
Day 07:

Drive to Shegar (4, 350 m)-205 Kms. O/N Hotel / Guesthouse.

  From Nylam, the drive passes through traditional Tibetan farm villages to Lalung-la Pass (5,050m) with outstanding view of Mt. Shisapangma (8013m highest within Tibet). Continue towards Shegar via a town of Old Tingri, where you can have a good view of Mt. Everest (8,850m) on a clear fine day. Overnight in Guest House.
Day 08:

At Shegar (New Tingri). O/N Guest House.

  At Shegar for acclimatisation before heading towards Everest Base Camp and higher elevation. For interested people one can visit the local town just 20 minutes drive south from the main highway and visit the Monastery located on the cliff edge, which was actually a Dzong / Fort in the past centuries with the monastery within this Dzong.
Day 09:

Drive Everest Base Camp. 4-5 hrs journey. O/N Camp.

  Just few minutes from the main highway our route diverts towards Rongbuk and Everest Base Camp. On the way we pass over the Pang La (16,400 ft/ 5,200 m), which gives great views of the route and the entire North East Face of Everest. The road then descends to the foot of the Rongbuk valley and before we reach base camp we stop at the Rongbuk Monastery. From Rongbuk a short 20-30 minutes drive reaches us to the Base Camp.
Day 10-12:

At Everest Base Camp. O/N Camp.

  At Everest Base Camp, preparation for the big climb, sorting out the gear and to get fully acclimatised.
Day 13-14:

Trek to Advance Base Camp.


We now pack loads for the yaks to go to the Advanced Base Camp, which is 22 km up the valley, requiring two days to reach. Load the yaks and head to ABC. There are fantastic views of the North Face of Everest if the clouds permit and then later in the day before reaching intermediate camp. We will make camp by the river at the half way point. We set off early in the morning with the yaks on the second day to allow plenty time in the afternoon to set up a rudimentary camp for the evening, of course to be finished the next day. At Advance Base Camp for necessary preparation for the climb.


Day 15-53: Climbing Period.



From ABC we follow the moraine towards the North Col. and cross the glacier easily to its foot. About 1,000 ft / 300 m of fairly deep snow climbing leads to the Col at 7,066 m. The Col forms a fairly wide ridge, which has ample room for tents. This will be Camp I. To the south, the Col rises to become the North Ridge. This is straight-forward snow climbing, eventually steeping into rocky shelves and short buttresses. A second camp will be placed at around 7,700 m. The route to the North East Ridge leading from the top of the North Ridge to the summit will depend on conditions prevailing at the time. We will either follow the North Ridge in its entirely to the crest of the North-North-East Ridge or make a rising traverse to the right to reach the ridge at a higher point. Our last camp will be placed at around 8,300 m. The final section of the climb takes in the notorious first and second steps. These are short, but abrupt rises on the North-East Ridge, which will provide testing climbing at extreme altitude! It was on the second step that Mallory and Irvine were last seen before they disappeared in 1924. Once this has been ascended, the ridge leads more easily to the summit.

Base Camp (5,200 m): We will spend about 3-4 days here after driving. These days will be used for rest as well as separating our loads to be used at Base Camp and higher camps.

Interim Camp (5,800 m):Interim Camp will be reached after 5-6 hours from Base Camp. We will need to spend one night here since BC to ABC is not possible in a single day.

Advance Base Camp (6,400 m):ABC will be reached after another 5-6 hours walk from Interim Camp. This will be our main place to stock our equipment and ration for the climbing period. We will bring all our equipment, gears & rations from BC to her by Yaks. We will spend about 5-6 days depending upon the situation for proper acclimatization. While clients are resting, Sherpa staffs will start setting up camps higher up and re-stock the equipment and rations.

North Col (7,066 m):Its about 4 hours climb to North Col from ABC. North Col is another good point for acclimatization. Sherpa staffs will restock the loads to North Col first. Its about 6 hours round trip journey from ABC, so clients will also climb North Col as climbing practice and get acclimatized. After loads have been fully stocked at North Col Sherpas will head towards Camp 2.

Camp II (7,350 m):Its another 4-5 hours walk from North Col.

Camp III (8,300 m): After Camp II is fully stocked, then Sherpa will start restocking Camp III, which is about 7-8 hours walk from North Col. From here we will return to North Col or even ABC for rest. Clients will also climb up to Camp II for getting fully acclimatized before heading for summit. After things are properly stocked and clients are fully acclimatized, looking at the weather condition, the climb will go like this:

ABC to North Col:                (Spend night at North Col)

North Col to Camp II:           (Spend night at Camp II with Oxygen Support for sleeping)

Camp II to Camp III:             (Walk during the day and take some rest)

Camp III to Summit:             Start around 10 - 10.30 pm

Camp III to 1st Step:            2 - 2 ½ hours walk

1st Step to 2nd Step:           1 ½ hours walk

2nd Step to 3rd Step:           1 ½ hours walk

3rd Step to after snow face: 1 ½ hours walk

Snow face to Summit:        1 ½ hours walk

On return

Summit to Camp II:              5 - 6 hours walk

Camp II to ABC:                   3 - 4 hours walk

Oxygen & Medical Support will be available at 2nd Step and Camp II

Day 54:

Return to Advance Base Camp.

  Yaks arrive at ABC to return to base camp. All loads must be carried down at this time, this includes garbage.
Day 55:

Return Everest Base Camp.

  Descend to base camp and start to organize departure from Everest.
Day 56:

At Everest Base Camp for clean up of all the unnecessary waste /  garbage.

  At Everest Base Camp clean up and packing, rubbish to be dump at designated dumping site, rest to be brought back to Kathmandu for proper disposal.
Day 57:

Drive back to Nylam. O/N Lodge.

  Retrace the journey via Lamana pass and Old Tingri.
Day 58:

Drive back to Kathmandu. O/N Hotel.

  Retrace the journey back to Kathmandu.
Day 59:

In Kathmandu. O/N Hotel.

  A free day in Kathmandu for rest and independent activities.
Day 60:

Transfer to Airport for the International departure.

  Today as per your international flight time, keep your confirmed air ticket, departure tax (in local currency) and your passport handy. Our staff will take you to the airport for your final departure.
The price includes following services:
1. Accommodation sharing twin room at Hotel in Kathmandu for 4 nights on Bed & Breakfast basis.
2. Airport transfers in Kathmandu & Lhasa.
3. Guided sightseeing tour as per itinerary with applicable entrance fees.
4. Hotel / Guest House accommodation in Tibet as per itinerary on full board basis.
5. Transportation by private vehicle.
6. English speaking Tibetan Guide throughout the trip in Tibet.
7. Camping arrangement as per itinerary backed by Nepali Crew at Everest BC, Interim Camp, ABC and Higher Camps on full board basis.
8. All applicable Climbing Permit and Entry Fees.
9. Yak & Yakmen to carry loads between BC-ABC-BC.
10. Transportation Kathmandu – Tibet Border – Kathmandu by private non AC Vehicle.
11. Service of Nepalese Climbing Sherpas with their equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
12. Royalty payable to Tibet Government for Nepalese staff.
13. High Altitude Tents, Rations, EPI Gases, Pots and Pans for High Altitude Camps.
14. Walkie Talkie for communication purpose.
15. Supply of Satellite Phone for emergency use.
16. Supply of Medical Kit for emergency use.
17. Tibet Visa Fees.
However our price does not include followings:
1. International flights to / from Kathmandu.
2. Nepal entry visa fees.
3. Lunch and dinner while in Kathmandu Hotel.
4. Travel, Medical and Personal insurance.
5. Expenses of personal nature, i.e. tipping, laundry, bottled drinks, bar bills etc.
6. Any expense for early returning member due sickness, injury or any other reason. No refund will be entertained for any unused service.
7. Extra expense occurred due to unexpected circumstances like cancellation of internal flights, floods, strike etc.
8. Personal clothing and all sorts of personal climbing gear.

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Trip Facts
  • Trip Name : Mount Everest – North Ridge (8,848m)
  • Trip Duration : 60 Days
  • Trip Grade : Challenging
  • Trip Date :
  • Activity : Climbing Trips
  • Highest Altitude : 8848 m
  • Month : Apr-May